Aside from the old town of Vigan in Ilocos Sur (and perhaps Intramuros de Manila), the municipality of Taal has the highest concentration of well-preserved Antillean houses locally known as the bahay na bató, a mixture of pre-Filipino (or before the foundation of our country), Spanish, and Chinese architectural influences. The town is very fortunate for not being razed to the ground by both Japanese and American forces during the last world war. And this is perhaps due to the intervention of the town’s patron saint, Martín de Tours (whose image is housed inside the mighty interiors of the Basílica de San Martín de Tours), and also of Our Lady of Caysasay.
Last October 5 (Monday morning), Arnaldo and I went to Taal. Despite a looming low blood pressure, I just have to take that trip. Haven’t done much traveling and “field work” for a long, long time. We were unfortunate, though, to find out that most famous houses there which are now museums are closed on Mondays. That’s why we don’t have photos of some of the houses’ interiors. Drats.
It was my second time in Taal. The first time I was there was when I was still a college brat. Me and my Parañaque homies were just passing by on our way to Lemery to party and swim and get drunk. I didn’t care much about local history back then. And so this time around, I was prepared for one of the grandest moments of my life — a walk through time, a blast from the past!
Walking along the old streets of Taal reminded me of other centuries-old Filipino homes across the country. Many of them are already neglected. And every year, many of them are nonchalantly brought down to the ground to give way to the new (what price modernization!).
Here in Taal, the people take pride of their town’s rich cultural past. The people are wise enough to preserve their homes not just for posterity but for the sake of income-generating tourism. If only other towns follow Taal’s initiative, not only will they give their own people rewarding jobs, they would also help conserve remnants of our Filipino Identity.
I once tried to do the same for Unisan, Quezon, my father’s hometown. Some houses there could rival the beauty and architecture of those in Taal. But I failed, no thanks to hooligans in uniform.
I hope that the national government will do something to spread the conservationist stance of Taal. After all, to borrow from renowned conservationist Augusto Villalón, heritage conservation is everyone’s business.
Without further kalamazoo, here are the photos we took of that wonderful Hispanic town in Batangas — Taal!!!
NATIONAL HISTORICAL COMMISSION, 1972
ANG BAYAN NG TAAL (1572)
UNANG ITINATAG SA POOK NG BALANGON NOONG 1572. DAHIL SA MADALAS NA PAGPUTOK NG BULKAN AY INILIPAT ANG BAYAN SA KASALUKUYANG POOK. NAGING KABISERA NOONG 1732 KAYA’T TAAL ANG IPINANGALAN SA BUONG LALAWIGAN. NANG MULING MASIRA ANG BAYAN DAHIL SA PAGPUTOK NG BULKAN NOONG 1754, ANG KABISERA AY INILIPAT SA BATANGAN AT ISINUNOD DITO ANG PANGALAN NG LALAWIGAN. ANG BULKAN NG TAAL, NA PINAKAMALIIT SA BUONG DAIGDIG, AY NSA GITNA NG LAWA NG BONBON AT SA BUNGANGA NG BULKAN AY MAY ISANG PULONG NASA ISA PANG MALIIT NA LAWA. PUMUTOK ANG BULKAN NOONG 1634, 1635, 1641, 1709, 1718, 1729, 1731, 1749, 1754, 1867, 1874, 1880, 1911 AT 1965. ANG NGAYO’Y MGA BAYAN NG LEMERY, SAN LUIS, AGONCILLO, SAN NICOLAS, AT STA. TERESITA AY DATING SAKOP NG TAAL.
PHILIPPINE HISTORICAL COMMITTEE 1955
MARCELA MARIÑO DE AGONCILLO 1859-1946
IPINANGANAK SA TAAL 24 HUNYO 1859; NAG-ARAL SA KOLEHIYO NG SANTA CATALINA; ASAWA NI FELIPE AGONCILLO AT SIYA NIYANG MATAPAT NA KATULONG SA KANYANG MGA GAWAING MAKABAYAN; IPINAGBILI ANG KANYANG MGA HIYAS UPANG MAGUGOL NG ASAWA SA MISYON NITO SA IBANG BANSA SA KAPAKANAN NG PAGSASARILI NG PILIPINAS. SA PANAHON NG KANILANG PAGKAPATAPON SA HONG KONG, AY TINAHI NIYA ANG UNANG BANDILANG PILIPINO NA BUONG PAGMAMALAKING IWINAGAYWAY NI HENERAL AGUINALDO SA KAWIT NOONG 12 HUNYO 1898 SA PAGPAPAHAYAG NG PAGSASARILI NG PILIPINAS. NAMATAY SA TAAL 30 MAYO 1946.
THE ANCESTRAL HOME OF ANANIAS DIOKNO
The home of one of Taal’s local heroes, Ananias Diokno, is a sad story. The place is already decrepit, and the second floor can even be destroyed by ten men’s bare hands within minutes. What’s ironic is that there is a historical marker placed on the house’s first floor exterior wall, implying that the place is taken care of by local authorities. Hopefully, this house will still be preserved for posterity.
NATIONAL HISTORICAL INSTITUTE, 1991
ANANIAS DIOKNO
KILALA SA TAGURING HENERAL NG KARAGATAN. IPINANGANAK SA TAAL, BATANGAS, ENERO 22, 1860. NAGING KALIHIM NG DIGMA SA PAMAHALAANG PANGKAGAWARAN NG BATANGAS, 1898; NAMUMUNONG HENERAL NG HUKBONG EKSPEDISYUNARYO NG PANAY; MATAGUMPAY NA NAKIPAGLABAN SA BALWARTE NG MGA KASTILA SA AKLAN, ANTIQUE, CAPIZ AT LUNGSOD NG ILOILO; GOBERNADOR PAMPULITIKO-MILITAR NG CAPIZ. LUMAHOK SA PAKIKIPAGLABAN NG MGA GERILYA NOONG DIGMAANG PILIPINO AT AMERIKANO SA CAPIZ, 1898. NAKIPAGLABAN AT NADAKIP NG MGA AMERIKANO SA MAY BUNDOK MAKAWIWILI, AKLAN, 1901. NAMATAY SA ARAYAT, PAMPANGA, NOBYEMBRE 2, 1922.
THE ANCESTRAL HOME OF LEÓN APACIBLE
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MARÍA YLAGAN OROSA – FABIÁN DE LA ROSA ANCESTRAL HOUSE
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BASÍLICA DE SAN MARTÍN DE TOURS
For years, I’ve been hearing a lot about the old church in Taal which is situated on a high hill, and about the Virgin of Caysasay. I’ve always thought that this miraculous image is housed in that same old church on top of the hill. So when Arnaldo and I arrived in Taal and saw the massive structure of the church, I thought that it was the Church of Caysasay. But the natives told me otherwise.
Pardon my ignorance, dear readers. So the Church of Taal and the Church of Caysasay are two different churches after all.
The Church of Taal is officially known as the Basílica de San Martín de Tours, the largest church in all of Asia! It stands 96 meters long and 45 meters wide. It was the Augustinian Missionaries who initiated the construction of this “magnificent monstrosity” way back in 1856. Even today, modern architecture might still find it difficult to build such a structure. So you could just imagine the kind of architectural and masonic genius our forefathers (and Spanish architect Luciano Oliver) had —not to mention the dedication and faith— in creating such a stylish and grand structure for God and Christianity and its people in this quaint and bucolic town of Taal.
As stated in the town’s historical marker, Taal used to be in a different site. The Taal basilica was first built in present day San Nicolás, Batangas under the care of Fray Diego Espina, O.S.A. in 1575. But in 1754, nearby Volcán de Bonbón (the onomatopoeical ancient name of Taal Volcano) erupted so violently it destroyed not only the original church but the whole town of Taal itself. The church was then transferred to its present site, the Taal that we know today.
A new land was prepared for the new church in 1755, but in 1849 it was destroyed again, this time by an earthquake. Construction of the new church began in 1856 and lasted up to 1878. A small tower was made on the church’s left side but it was destroyed during the Japanese Occupation. It was reconstructed later on, much taller than the original.
It was only during the previous generation when this historic church was made into a basilica: 8 December 1954, feast day of the Immaculate Conception; it was later declared as a national shrine on 16 January 1974.
When Arnaldo and I went there last October 5, it was a windy Monday afternoon (my favorite weather!). My shirt was flapping onto my thin frame, and the winds were bouncing heavily on the weather-beaten façade as it howled into my ears. I stood right in front of the massive structure, looking straight up. The sentiment of that moment was something indescribable. Something which curdles the blood nostalgic.
It was something else — something that is purely and spiritually FILIPINO…
We then entered the church, eyes gaping at the imposing ceilings of this granddaddy of all Batangas churches.
I would have embraced the whole structure if I were Galactus of Marvel Comics.
So far, this is the most beautiful and awe-inspiring church these pretty eyes have laid on!
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NUESTRA SEÑORA DE CAYSASAY
The chapel-like Church of Caysasay is a stark contrast to the giant that is the Basílica de San Martín de Tours. Caysasay Church is located in the outskirts of the town, standing beside Río de Pansipit. The famous icon of Nuestra Señora de Caysasay, a 17th-century image of the Immaculate Conception, is housed there. The image was discovered by a Taaleño fisherman named Juan Maningcad in 1603. Up to now, nobody knows the origins of the miraculous image. There have been even reports of apparitions of the Blessed Virgin Mary on the hill of Barrio Caysasay. The Blessed Mother of Christ appeared on the same spot where the Church of Caysasay now stands.
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OUR HERITAGE SPEAKS SO MUCH OF OUR IDENTITY. CONSERVATION SPEAKS SO MUCH OF OUR LOVE AND RESPECT FOR OUR OWN IDENTITY.
Napakagandang lugar! I’ve been to Vigan, but I see this place more nostalgic, and much easier to go. Me and wifey’s thinking of visiting the place for the Barong Tagalogs but I never thought the town got this much to offer, I’m sure a day’s not enough to see every beauty it has.
I’m sure you and Arnaldo logged lots of fantastic things during this visit. Thank you for sharing these to us readers. Great story Pepe!
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Thanks, Sir Levi!
Don’t just visit the place for the Barong Tagalog because –you are correct– this Hispanic town has lots to offer!
Not to mention its share of pretty Batangueñas, hehehe!
¡Hasta la vista!
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Thank you Pepe for featuring our town. Can’t help but be proud (with goosebumps) that i am a one truly blooded Taalena. If you wish to comeback, your wife can just send me a message and will show you more of Taal.
More power to you!!!
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Thanks for the invitation, Nene! You should really be proud of being Taaleña. And I sometimes wish that it was my hometown. =)
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Very nice! I’ll forward this to my “kids” so they see where I came from.
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Thank you, Lita!
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wow, joms, parang nag field trip lang ako ah, thanks for this. may mga nakatira pa ba dun sa ibang old houses? and hey, i miss lomi! ang sarap naman.
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Maraming lomi sa Batangas. Yung ibáng bahay, walá nang nacatirá. Cayá sirá-sirá ná. Sayang.
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you haven’t featured st. martin de tours’ tales of elders that is why the church was named after him…seemed taking pictures took very much of your time spent while in taal…there’s so much you have to know from folk stories to historic times…but thank you for your effort of featuring TAAl…i may not be a local of Taal but my it’s a part of me and truly I LOVE this place…
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This blogpost is not all about the basilica, that’s why.
And yes, taking pictures of the beautiful Filipino homes took most of our time. FYI: IT IS OUR PREROGATIVE.
We already know that there’s so much to know from folk stories. Unfortunately, I have work that night. We were running against time (and daylight).
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tnx haus namin yung isa jan
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¿Alín dun? ¡Hehehe!
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Thank you for featuring the town of my parent’s birthplace. I can only be proud reading your inspiring praises and comments. I will forward this to my children so they can be aware that they have an attachment to this historic heritage and someday, we will all plan to visit Taal.
Ahlah-aye,
Lita
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Thanks for the kind words, Lita! Hope you and your children could visit Taal soon! The place is simply amazing! I fell in love with it immediately!
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You have most wonderful pictures of Taal. Thank you. When you visit Taal again, please go to the Goco Ancestral home near the Villavicencio, Cabrera and Ilagan ancestral homes.. It is over 140 years old now. When our great aunts passed away, it feel to disrepair.. But the home and its antique furniture was lovingly restored a few years ago by my mother Marietta – Primicias nee Goco. This house has become a treasure for us who have experienced Taal and soon enough, we will come back, stay awhile and help make this wonderful place a shining town upon a hill once again. The next time around, we would be glad to host you.
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Hello Pío! Thank you for the invitation. =)
Yes, we did pass by the Goco Ancestral House. Unfortunately, Arnaldo‘s camera was already running out of battery. I’m sure we missed quite a lot of ancestral homes. And we went to Taal at a most inopportune day: Monday. We learned that most ancestral houses there are open to visitors on other days. Sayang.
If I’m not mistaken, the Goco clan also has a branch in Mindoro Oriental. Also, do you know if your mother is related to the late Senator Cipriano Primicias?
I’m glad that your family treats your house as a very valued treasure. Yes, the bahay na bató should be treated that way. It is the “secret soul” of what binds a Filipino family to the world ethereal. I am proud of you people!
Best regards.
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Absolutely great historical value!
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Dear Pepe.
Thank you for your astute reply. My mother, Marietta is the eldest daughter of the late Senator Primicias, who is married to my Father, Amb. Raul Goco. Sen. Primicias from Lingayan, Pangasinan is my direct grandfather.
All the Goco’s from Mindoro(Calapan)and Batangas (Taal) come from the same ancestor(Juan Goco- of Chinese descent) and are all related.
We thank you for appreciating Taal. It is our ancestral home and though some of us are far away, the wonderful memories linger..
It is a diamond a rough, a place where time slows down but a diamond nonetheless. We would love to host you one day.. In our ancestral home, we welcome you.
Sincerely, Pio
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Thanks, Pío!
I’m an admirer of your grandfather, a gentleman of the old school, having belonged to a generation of Spanish-speaking senators.
Actually, I’ve been to your Tita Perla Primicias’ house (in Quezon City) many many years ago, when I was younger. I can’t even remember why we wen’t there.
Looking forward to meet you in your ancestral house one day.
Best regards,
Pepe
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Pepe, You have an open invitation. If and when you wish to visit our Taal Heritage home, let us know beforehand and we will gladly accommodate you. Pls send your request to my email address which I believe you have already.
Thank you for your comments regarding my Grandfather. He was representative of the golden years of politics in the Philippines, where Senators were actually servants of the people. He left a wonderful legacy which we in our generation wish to only reflect by being gentle and noble people ourselves.
Pardon me if I inquire, my grandpa passed away over 40 years ago and yet it seems you know of him personally. I gather since you are young yourself, that you had an opportunity to study his life and career. What do you remember distinctly about him? My Tita Perla Primicias Dela Hoz is a riot. So gregarious is she.. and she has continued to be beautiful and gracious despite her years. She is a most wonderful Aunt. I am glad you know her. She comes to New Manila ever so often.. You should meet her hence. Cheers!
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Hello Pío,
Sorry for the very late reply. I haven’t visited this blogpost for a long time.
What do I remember distinctly about him? His love for his Filipino identity. I’m quite glad to learn that your grandfather was very proud of his language –our language– which is Spanish.
Regards.
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Hi Pepe,
Very nice job, so delighted with these pictures of our town and thank you for all the good words about Taal, I was born and raised there and now based in California. I missed it a lot.
Anyway, since you mentioned that you are from Unisan Quezon, m wondering if you are related to Ate Lilia Alas, who is my grandpa’s first cousin. I have been there long time ago and wants to go back there to visit my relatives one of these days.
Appreciate your time and effort for doing this.
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Hello Lorna,
Thank you for the kind words, too.
Actually, I’m not from Unisan — my father is. Since I grew up in Parañaque City, that is the place which I consider as my hometown (or my provincia).
Yes, I do have a relative named Lilia Alas. I’m not sure if we’re talking about the same person, but the Lilia Alas I know is actually not a true-blooded Alas; she is married to the late Ramón Alas, a brother of my dad’s father. And this Lilia Alas (we call her Lola Lily) is still a heavy drinker despite her age, LOL! But I haven’t seen her in years.
If Lilia Alas is your grandfather’s first cousin, does that mean we’re distant cousins? =)
Best regards,
Pepe
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Its really good to see the pictures of those houses that we used to play and climb on.. Oo,, nung mga bata pa kami,, jan kami malimit maglaro habang sayang saya kaming umaakyat sa mga malalaking adobe nito. Sayang nga lang at hindi nyo nakita ang view sa itaas ng tore ng basilica. Babalik pa nmn kayo di ba,, well you should see what is up there.
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Oo, talagáng bábalic acó sa bayan niyó. Sigue, susubucan cong umaquiát sa torre ng basílica (nagawá co na yan sa lumang iglesia ng Mabitac, La Laguna casama ang aquing esposa tres años na ang nacalipas). Sana payagan acóng umaquiát, ¡hehehe!
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maganda talaga jan samin sa taal. im a proud Taalenio..
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Thank you, not only for your wonderful write-up of Taal, but also for giving me more knowledge & in-sight of the beautiful place I once called home. What I learned about my heritage in the short time I spent there as a child has helped cast the mold of who I am today…A proud Taalena here in New York, thanks to you I have something to show.
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Thank so much for this beautiful write up of Taal. made me feel proud to be a true blooded taalena . JIJI BUZETA sounds familiar , Dad mo ba si Rogelio Buzeta?
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Hi!
Wonderful article! If it’s okay, may we know the directions going to Taal, Batangas? thank you!
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Hi Len!
Arnaldo went to Taal from Alabang, Muntinlupà City. We rode a bus going to Lipâ City, Batangas (the trip was around two hours). From there, we took a jeep going to Taal, Batangas (it took approximately 30 minutes from Lipâ to Taal).
I’m not sure how to give you instructions because I’m not sure where you will be coming from, nor if you’ll be commuting or not. I advise you to google it instead (or use Wikimapia). I’m pretty sure you’ll find what you’re looking for.
Sorry I’m not much of any help.
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hi Len..i appreciate pepe’s suggestion..but if u’r from s0mewhere in maniLa i’ll give u a short and easy way on how to get there…just go to GIL PUYAT(taft)BUS STATION or even t0 ARANETA CENTER CUBAO BUS STATION.mdming bus doon so hanapin mo ung LEMERY ang last stop..then sakay k ng tricycle tell them TaaL.. enjoy ur visiT! ^_^
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Lalaine, just letting you know that my dad’s name is not Rogelio.
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Thank you for the reply jiji.We also have JIji Buzeta in the family matagal na kasi kaming hindi nagkita. Thanks again .
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I love history, old houses & old buildings. I hope the people of Taal do something to preserve those historical old houses. I have been there when I was a little girl (? yrs. old), but I remember the Cathedral & the old houses. I’m thinking visiting the Philippines in the next 2 yrs. & I want to make it sure I will visit this town. See you kabayan.
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thank you for your site…its reminds me where i came from..we used to lived sa isa sa tatlong maria house facing taal church in front of taal plaza…thanks for the pictures of taal…bring back childhood memories…super…i lived here in ontario canada for almost 11 years di ba nakakauwi…miss home all my family lived there…..regards keep me post….
salamat..
kabayan orly
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Thanks for featuring my hometown.. I miss this place so much. 😦 If only I can do something to preserve those historic houses sighhh.. Oh well, maybe I have to work work work and then someday come back and do something to preserve the beauty Taal.
Otherwise if I am home, I will try to do something to wake those people sitting in the local government. They must take action. I think if they preserve Taal, they can transform it into a Tourist spot and generate income for the locals too..
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Hi! Next time you visit Taal, I recommend you buy Taal tapa, longganisa, tsokolate, embitido, suman, empanada. My children think these food from Taal is the best!
Your blog has made me very aware that my hometown truly has a lot to offer. Thanks!!
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Yes, your hometown is one of the best towns in this country. And on my next visit to Taal, I will surely buy those commodities you recommended. Thanks for visiting FILIPINO eSCRIBBLES, Angie. =)
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Pepe,
Thanks for featuring my Birth Place. I remember just walking around Taal and seeing the beautiful old houses makes my day. I always make yabang of my Home Town to my friends and Husband here in Dubai. Well sad to say that i havent been home since 2000. If im gonna be given a chance to comeback, I’ll spend my time taking good pictures. Thanks again and keep it up!
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http://www.facebook.com/group.php?gid=338405166772
history of Batangas
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Nice blog. I love ancestral houses too. I’d put you on my blogroll and remember to check out your updates from time to time. Keep blogging!
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Sir, hindi nyo po na-feature ung miraculous wells of santa lucia. nasa pagitan po un ng basilica and Caysasay
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Sa amin po sa bicol ay bihira ang nakakakilala sa NUESTRA SENORA DE CAYSASAY, kahit yun negosyanteng galing batangas ay di kilala ng tanungin ko, kahit mga pari di rin alam. Ang mahal na NUESTRA SENORA DE CAYSASAY ay nakilala po namin nang ito ay nagdalaw sa bahay namin na napalaking biyaya sa amin dahil po sa may anak akong may 3rd eye, siya po ay nakita niya at tinawag pa niyang ate ang NUESTRA SENORA sana po ay magkameron ako
ng panahon madalaw siya sa kanyang luklukan, maraming salamat sa amin original na gabay at patnubay dito sa mundo ng mortal NUESTRA SENORA DE CAYSASAY.
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Gracias Pepe por este maravilloso articulo y fotos .La nacion que no respeta su pasado no se respeta asi misma . Viva filipinas y la Hispanidad,
Un abrazo a todos nuestros hermanos filipinos.
Sigue con el buen trabajo,
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im proud to be a taalenya kahit san sulok ng mundo pag tinatanong ako kung taga saan sabi ko taal iba talaga ang dating amd of course being one of the ylagan s of taal
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I’m a very proud descendant of Taalenos. My mother was the daughter of Dionisio Ilagan who was the son of Camilo Ilagan and Teresa Agoncillo, all from Taal. I’d be very grateful to whoever can help me determine my greatgreat grandparents.
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it’s like visiting Vigan. I cannot forget the Tapa it’s so yummy! Thank you Casa Punzalan my kids loved sungka and your spanish colonial style bed. a must to visit place.
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Thank you fior your praises for our heritage town of Taal. Please come and visit our basilica now and though many Taaleños believe in Msgr. Madlanfbayan’s renovations and additions up to now which is still ongoing.. But he is destroying our heritage and patrimony. All his recent constructions were not submitted and approved by the NHCP, so it’s all illegal. He is out on bail for contempt of court for his unstoppable destruction of a national Shrine. Can’t write about it cause it’s under litigation. Come and just see for yourself. It’s a heritage nightmare.
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Hi Ramón. Yes, I’ve seen that pile of architectural garbage beside the church. I was there at Taal with my friends Señor Guillermo Gómez and Arnaldo Arnáiz exactly seven months ago. It’s a shame that even a man of God like Monsignor Alfredo Madlangbayan can have such a simpleton view of built heritage.
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Ang ganda ng mga bahay, ang tanong ko lang pwede bang pumasok doon ? may entrances po ba ang bawat bahay ? thanks
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Ang ganda ng mga bahay, ang tanong ko lang pwede bang pumasok doon ? may entrances po ba ang bawat bahay ? thanks
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